Chef BK’s wit is as sharp as his gleaming sushi blade. BK always remembers a face, and is quick to crack a joke at the expense of his regulars. His technique is impeccable, and he tastes constantly as if he were looking for poison on the President’s Secret Service detail. Even if he tried the yuzu sauce thirty seconds ago, he’ll do it again if he’s making a new customer order. If you go omakase and put things in his hands, he’ll create a balanced progression of tastes that would be at home at Alinea or Charlie Trotter`s. Creamy tuna tartare with crisp chives, crunchy batons of Japanese mountain yam (yamaimo) and caviar is a textural merry-go-round of contrasts, while slices of <i>anago</i> (Conger eel) marinated in <i>mirin</i> (Japanese rice wine) tastes like a puffed sushi dessert.
Aria Restaurant and Bar in the Fairmont Hotel, 200 N. Columbus (312)444-9494