Forget filet mignon dotted in ruddy bordelaise. Hotel restaurants, once grand ballrooms of classic uninspired French cuisine, are now laboratories for gastronomic inventiveness. Chef Graham Elliot Bowles led the way last year with Seussian platings like red wafers of kangaroo carpaccio with shavings of melon, eucalyptus, micro mint and swaths of caramel served in a boomerang-shaped dish.