Chicago is now the “Fattest City in America,” or so says Men’s Fitness magazine. Instead of rejecting the tag, let’s embrace it. We’ll meet you at Zephyr, a long-running North Side ice-cream institution. Detractors hate the décor (tacky and not well-kept), the service (not so much), and food (we happen to like the “King Kong,” a burger on garlic bread). Forget all that and focus on what really matters at Zephyr—the ice cream. Try “The Belgian Beauty,” a Belgian waffle a la mode with butterscotch and whipped cream, or “The Marathon,” a sixty-four-ounce shake that lives up to its name.